Tuesday, 30 March 2010
Patterns for Making a Coptic Sock
The previous 6 or so posts are patterns for making a two-toed Coptic Sock based on those in the Petrie Museum by the U3A group. This group have been meeting at the museum every 2 weeks since October and have enthusiastically thrown all their creative resources at the project.
Their patterns offer different approaches to the one Charlotte and I put together so please try them out!
Debbie
Their patterns offer different approaches to the one Charlotte and I put together so please try them out!
Debbie
RECORDED NOTES FOR MAKING EGYPTIAN SOCKS.
To be used in conjunction with Design Chart below.
I am making two socks. One light and one dark colour, to show the difference the shade makes to each attempt. Light colours behave in different ways from dark ones. The light colours are softer and produce looser tensions. The dark dyes affect yarn making it appear thicker and the stitches seem tighter. Darker colours are harder to work with. Stitches are more difficult to see and one needs to work with really good light conditions. Lighter colours are not such a strain on the eyes, so counting stitches and rows prove much easier.
Tension Swatch = light colour: 4 stitches and 7 rows = 1 inch
dark colour: the same but knits tighter and
appears thicker with slubs created by pulling
yarn in needle back and forth through stitches.
Tubular section from front of heel to beginning of toe = 6 inches
Approximate measurement around instep = 10 inches
Make cast on chain of 38 stitches
Work approximately 40 rounds.
Toes : One slightly larger than the other.
Flatten tube (making sure which side you want to be top and bottom of sock)
19 stitches on top layer. Smaller toe: Count 8 stitches from edge and stitch through tube and secure 16 stitches. Continue working in round = 16 passes. Decrease every 3rd stitch. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and pull up.
Repeat for larger toe, this time using remaining 11 stitches.
Work approximately 12 passes. Then, decrease by missing every 3rd stitch around until tube has closed. Darn in remaining long tail of yarn.
Base of heel: On underside of sock select approximately 14/16 stitches and work back and forth for about 2”
Ankle: Repeat chain cast on = 38 stitches and work in round for about 2” or as required. Select about 5 stitches in suitable place and pin to top of instep. Then continue working back and forth over remaining stitches (joining each end of every row to edge of main tube until work is level with base of heel. If happy with the way the pieces fit together, sew or continue in pattern stitch to join around base of heel. On completion, sew in ends to inside of sock. If ends of yarn ply is split before sewing, it will be less lumpy.
I made this pattern for sock to fit my foot. Socks to for shoe 5 or 6 (39 or 40). All of this is approximate because everyone will possibly achieve a different tension (stitches/rows = 1”). So, using these notes, together with the chart, reasonable success should be achieved. The chart can be altered to calculate socks for smaller or larger feet.
SYBIL KENTON - March 2010
I am making two socks. One light and one dark colour, to show the difference the shade makes to each attempt. Light colours behave in different ways from dark ones. The light colours are softer and produce looser tensions. The dark dyes affect yarn making it appear thicker and the stitches seem tighter. Darker colours are harder to work with. Stitches are more difficult to see and one needs to work with really good light conditions. Lighter colours are not such a strain on the eyes, so counting stitches and rows prove much easier.
Tension Swatch = light colour: 4 stitches and 7 rows = 1 inch
dark colour: the same but knits tighter and
appears thicker with slubs created by pulling
yarn in needle back and forth through stitches.
Tubular section from front of heel to beginning of toe = 6 inches
Approximate measurement around instep = 10 inches
Make cast on chain of 38 stitches
Work approximately 40 rounds.
Toes : One slightly larger than the other.
Flatten tube (making sure which side you want to be top and bottom of sock)
19 stitches on top layer. Smaller toe: Count 8 stitches from edge and stitch through tube and secure 16 stitches. Continue working in round = 16 passes. Decrease every 3rd stitch. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and pull up.
Repeat for larger toe, this time using remaining 11 stitches.
Work approximately 12 passes. Then, decrease by missing every 3rd stitch around until tube has closed. Darn in remaining long tail of yarn.
Base of heel: On underside of sock select approximately 14/16 stitches and work back and forth for about 2”
Ankle: Repeat chain cast on = 38 stitches and work in round for about 2” or as required. Select about 5 stitches in suitable place and pin to top of instep. Then continue working back and forth over remaining stitches (joining each end of every row to edge of main tube until work is level with base of heel. If happy with the way the pieces fit together, sew or continue in pattern stitch to join around base of heel. On completion, sew in ends to inside of sock. If ends of yarn ply is split before sewing, it will be less lumpy.
I made this pattern for sock to fit my foot. Socks to for shoe 5 or 6 (39 or 40). All of this is approximate because everyone will possibly achieve a different tension (stitches/rows = 1”). So, using these notes, together with the chart, reasonable success should be achieved. The chart can be altered to calculate socks for smaller or larger feet.
SYBIL KENTON - March 2010
Two Toed Egyptian Sock from the Petrie Museum
REG NO UC.16766 and UC16767
These two socks in the Petrie Museum are delicious to look at and sophistically made. The instructions for the ‘look and made alike sock’ below is only a poor and simple immitation.
Material: ‘BRITISH BREEDS JACOB BLACK ARAN
My tension in this wool: 8 stitches and 10 rows per 3 cm (tightly worked).
I suggest that measurements of the feet are taken, tension worked out and calculations of the right number of stitches are made along the sewing of the sock.
1. Start from the toes, which are made in two parts – the big toe and the other four toes. ( Look at the diagrams for help.) 8 stitches in a ring, tighten the ring (row 1/diagram 1). Sew 2 blanket stitches into each of the stitches in row 1 (row 2/diagram 2). There are now 16 stitches in the ring. Continue to sew in the circular the length of the big toe (diagram 3).
2. For the remaining four toes repeat rows 1 and 2 as above. Along the top of the toes and down along the edge of the little toe mark off two stitches as the work progresses. In the stitches on either side of these two stitches work 2 stitches round until the right number of stitches or length is reached. (2 and 3 may overlap)
3. Where the two parts join take care of two issues: a) leave a few stitches from both parts to join between the toes and b) increase with 1 stitch four times where the parts meet (to make it easy for the thong to fit between the toes.
4. Continue to sew until the instep is reached.
5. Identify the middle stitches on the sole of the sock (1/4 of the total number of stitches). Work forwards turn the work 180 degrees (right side of the sock facing you) and work backwards, At the end of each row add a blanket stitch for neat turning. If the wool is behind the needle on the forward row it must be in front of the needle on the return row in order to get an even surface.
6. While sewing pick up an appropriate number of stitches to get a smooth connection on the two sides of the heel flap. Continue to work in the flat as in 5. Instead of making a blanket stitch at the end of each row – graft the work into the edge of the body of the sock.
7. Work until the height is suitable (to below/middle of the ankle!).
8. There are two options now: a) continue to work in the round adding the remaining stitches from the top or the sock to length is reached, b) work in the flat creating a slit in the front, or c) a mixture of the two ways. (Watch that the top is not too tight and prevents you being able to pull the sock on). Lonny Prescott
These two socks in the Petrie Museum are delicious to look at and sophistically made. The instructions for the ‘look and made alike sock’ below is only a poor and simple immitation.
Material: ‘BRITISH BREEDS JACOB BLACK ARAN
My tension in this wool: 8 stitches and 10 rows per 3 cm (tightly worked).
I suggest that measurements of the feet are taken, tension worked out and calculations of the right number of stitches are made along the sewing of the sock.
1. Start from the toes, which are made in two parts – the big toe and the other four toes. ( Look at the diagrams for help.) 8 stitches in a ring, tighten the ring (row 1/diagram 1). Sew 2 blanket stitches into each of the stitches in row 1 (row 2/diagram 2). There are now 16 stitches in the ring. Continue to sew in the circular the length of the big toe (diagram 3).
2. For the remaining four toes repeat rows 1 and 2 as above. Along the top of the toes and down along the edge of the little toe mark off two stitches as the work progresses. In the stitches on either side of these two stitches work 2 stitches round until the right number of stitches or length is reached. (2 and 3 may overlap)
3. Where the two parts join take care of two issues: a) leave a few stitches from both parts to join between the toes and b) increase with 1 stitch four times where the parts meet (to make it easy for the thong to fit between the toes.
4. Continue to sew until the instep is reached.
5. Identify the middle stitches on the sole of the sock (1/4 of the total number of stitches). Work forwards turn the work 180 degrees (right side of the sock facing you) and work backwards, At the end of each row add a blanket stitch for neat turning. If the wool is behind the needle on the forward row it must be in front of the needle on the return row in order to get an even surface.
6. While sewing pick up an appropriate number of stitches to get a smooth connection on the two sides of the heel flap. Continue to work in the flat as in 5. Instead of making a blanket stitch at the end of each row – graft the work into the edge of the body of the sock.
7. Work until the height is suitable (to below/middle of the ankle!).
8. There are two options now: a) continue to work in the round adding the remaining stitches from the top or the sock to length is reached, b) work in the flat creating a slit in the front, or c) a mixture of the two ways. (Watch that the top is not too tight and prevents you being able to pull the sock on). Lonny Prescott
Recreating a Coptic Egyptian Toe Toed Sock
Materials : 100 gm ball of Ashford Tekapo Pure New Zealand Wool (Double Knit 8 ply)
Blunt, large eyed needle – Milwards “Knitters Needles” are ideal
Size : To fit a size 5 (UK) shoe
Tension : 12 stitches and 10 rows over 1 inch – using “blanket stitch”
Note : The sock in constructed from the toes towards the instep. It might be useful to “try it on” as you go along
Step 1 – Big toe
Make a loop and work 7 blanket stitches into the loop
Tighten the loop by pulling the end thread
Work 1 row
Increase by working 2 stitches into every loop (14 stitches)
Work in the round until measuring 2¼ inches
Step 2 – Four Toe Section
Make a loop and work 13 blanket stitches into the loop
Tighten the loop by pulling the end thread
Work 1 row
Increase by working 2 stitches into every loop (26 stitches)
Work in the round until measuring 2¼ inches
Step 3 – Body of Sock
With the 2 toe sections side by side, slip stitch two stitches from each section
Work across the big toe to the join, pick up one of the stitches and then work across the four toe section and round until reaching the join on the other side, pick up one stitch and then continue working across the remainder of the big toe to complete the join
Work in the round on these stitches until work measures 5 inches from the toe joins
Step 4 – Under Heel Flap
Make a flap to go under the heel – identify the centre of the underside of the tube and joining thread work on 14 stitches, turn and work back and forth on these 14 stitches until flap measures 2 ½ inches
Step 5 – Ankle Section
Rejoin thread and pick up and work on 14 stitches down one side of the heel flap, 14 stitches across back of heel flap and 14 stitches down the last side of the flap.
Work back and forth on these stitches picking up one stitch from the instep at the beginning of each row
Work for 1½ inches
Work across the instep stitches and then continue working across the ankle section to work once again in the round
Continue in the round until ankle section measures 4 inches from the back of the heel
Fasten off
Carol Lathwell
March 2010
Blunt, large eyed needle – Milwards “Knitters Needles” are ideal
Size : To fit a size 5 (UK) shoe
Tension : 12 stitches and 10 rows over 1 inch – using “blanket stitch”
Note : The sock in constructed from the toes towards the instep. It might be useful to “try it on” as you go along
Step 1 – Big toe
Make a loop and work 7 blanket stitches into the loop
Tighten the loop by pulling the end thread
Work 1 row
Increase by working 2 stitches into every loop (14 stitches)
Work in the round until measuring 2¼ inches
Step 2 – Four Toe Section
Make a loop and work 13 blanket stitches into the loop
Tighten the loop by pulling the end thread
Work 1 row
Increase by working 2 stitches into every loop (26 stitches)
Work in the round until measuring 2¼ inches
Step 3 – Body of Sock
With the 2 toe sections side by side, slip stitch two stitches from each section
Work across the big toe to the join, pick up one of the stitches and then work across the four toe section and round until reaching the join on the other side, pick up one stitch and then continue working across the remainder of the big toe to complete the join
Work in the round on these stitches until work measures 5 inches from the toe joins
Step 4 – Under Heel Flap
Make a flap to go under the heel – identify the centre of the underside of the tube and joining thread work on 14 stitches, turn and work back and forth on these 14 stitches until flap measures 2 ½ inches
Step 5 – Ankle Section
Rejoin thread and pick up and work on 14 stitches down one side of the heel flap, 14 stitches across back of heel flap and 14 stitches down the last side of the flap.
Work back and forth on these stitches picking up one stitch from the instep at the beginning of each row
Work for 1½ inches
Work across the instep stitches and then continue working across the ankle section to work once again in the round
Continue in the round until ankle section measures 4 inches from the back of the heel
Fasten off
Carol Lathwell
March 2010
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