RECORDED NOTES FOR MAKING EGYPTIAN SOCKS.

To be used in conjunction with Design Chart below.

I am making two socks. One light and one dark colour, to show the difference the shade makes to each attempt. Light colours behave in different ways from dark ones. The light colours are softer and produce looser tensions. The dark dyes affect yarn making it appear thicker and the stitches seem tighter. Darker colours are harder to work with. Stitches are more difficult to see and one needs to work with really good light conditions. Lighter colours are not such a strain on the eyes, so counting stitches and rows prove much easier.

Tension Swatch = light colour: 4 stitches and 7 rows = 1 inch
dark colour: the same but knits tighter and
appears thicker with slubs created by pulling
yarn in needle back and forth through stitches.

Tubular section from front of heel to beginning of toe = 6 inches
Approximate measurement around instep = 10 inches
Make cast on chain of 38 stitches
Work approximately 40 rounds.
Toes : One slightly larger than the other.
Flatten tube (making sure which side you want to be top and bottom of sock)
19 stitches on top layer. Smaller toe: Count 8 stitches from edge and stitch through tube and secure 16 stitches. Continue working in round = 16 passes. Decrease every 3rd stitch. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and pull up.
Repeat for larger toe, this time using remaining 11 stitches.
Work approximately 12 passes. Then, decrease by missing every 3rd stitch around until tube has closed. Darn in remaining long tail of yarn.

Base of heel: On underside of sock select approximately 14/16 stitches and work back and forth for about 2”

Ankle: Repeat chain cast on = 38 stitches and work in round for about 2” or as required. Select about 5 stitches in suitable place and pin to top of instep. Then continue working back and forth over remaining stitches (joining each end of every row to edge of main tube until work is level with base of heel. If happy with the way the pieces fit together, sew or continue in pattern stitch to join around base of heel. On completion, sew in ends to inside of sock. If ends of yarn ply is split before sewing, it will be less lumpy.

I made this pattern for sock to fit my foot. Socks to for shoe 5 or 6 (39 or 40). All of this is approximate because everyone will possibly achieve a different tension (stitches/rows = 1”). So, using these notes, together with the chart, reasonable success should be achieved. The chart can be altered to calculate socks for smaller or larger feet.

SYBIL KENTON - March 2010