Tuesday, 30 March 2010

Two Toed Egyptian Sock from the Petrie Museum

REG NO UC.16766 and UC16767
These two socks in the Petrie Museum are delicious to look at and sophistically made. The instructions for the ‘look and made alike sock’ below is only a poor and simple immitation.

My tension in this wool: 8 stitches and 10 rows per 3 cm (tightly worked).
I suggest that measurements of the feet are taken, tension worked out and calculations of the right number of stitches are made along the sewing of the sock.

1. Start from the toes, which are made in two parts – the big toe and the other four toes. ( Look at the diagrams for help.) 8 stitches in a ring, tighten the ring (row 1/diagram 1). Sew 2 blanket stitches into each of the stitches in row 1 (row 2/diagram 2). There are now 16 stitches in the ring. Continue to sew in the circular the length of the big toe (diagram 3).
2. For the remaining four toes repeat rows 1 and 2 as above. Along the top of the toes and down along the edge of the little toe mark off two stitches as the work progresses. In the stitches on either side of these two stitches work 2 stitches round until the right number of stitches or length is reached. (2 and 3 may overlap)
3. Where the two parts join take care of two issues: a) leave a few stitches from both parts to join between the toes and b) increase with 1 stitch four times where the parts meet (to make it easy for the thong to fit between the toes.
4. Continue to sew until the instep is reached.
5. Identify the middle stitches on the sole of the sock (1/4 of the total number of stitches). Work forwards turn the work 180 degrees (right side of the sock facing you) and work backwards, At the end of each row add a blanket stitch for neat turning. If the wool is behind the needle on the forward row it must be in front of the needle on the return row in order to get an even surface.
6. While sewing pick up an appropriate number of stitches to get a smooth connection on the two sides of the heel flap. Continue to work in the flat as in 5. Instead of making a blanket stitch at the end of each row – graft the work into the edge of the body of the sock.
7. Work until the height is suitable (to below/middle of the ankle!).
8. There are two options now: a) continue to work in the round adding the remaining stitches from the top or the sock to length is reached, b) work in the flat creating a slit in the front, or c) a mixture of the two ways. (Watch that the top is not too tight and prevents you being able to pull the sock on). Lonny Prescott

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